I worked with Roland Hunter at PriceWaterhouse Coopers LLP in Calgary for a couple of years. In 2001, he climbed Everest. By 2006, he was tired of the corporate life and started a trekking company based out of London, England (http://www.themountaincompany.co.uk/).

He wrote a couple of articles on organizing big mountain climbs. While not incredibly descriptive, I thought his commentary around gear to be sobering. If one thinks you always need the heaviest, bomber gear, think again.

http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Climbing_8000m_Peaks__Part_One_527.htm