The 1/4 blade height on the Classic is too small for a guide system to clamp to. It's also made out of a soft enough steel that it sharpens very fast - so only a fine, or extra fine stone is needed. I use a 3x1x1/4" arkansas stone made by Smiths and available at Walmart, Lowes, etc (weight 1 oz). Using water instead of oil works fine, just keep the stone wet to prevent the steel particles from clogging up the grit of the stone. I've also had good luck with wet/dry sandpaper laid on a flat surface(400, 800, 1200 grit = medium, fine, xtra-fine), but it wears out and then rips easily so the stone is more foolproof. You "can" sharpen your classic with a smooth-ish stone you pick up on the trail, it's just not convenient...
Freehand is easy. Just lay the blade flat on the stone, and then raise the spine about 1 blade thickness and make a motion like you are trying to slice a thin layer of the stone off the top. Keep doing the same side, until you can feel a burr (rolled over edge) on the side you aren't sharpening. Then do the same thing to the other side to raise a burr, and then do 2 strokes on the original side to remove the burr. You only have to do the same number of strokes on each side if you care whether the edge is in the exact center of the blade thickness (it doesn't effect cutting performance on thin blades). The whole process takes 1-2 minutes. The tip is thinner, so raise the handle a little to keep the side of the blade as close to the stone as it was when you were sharpening the main part of the blade.
Whittlers just leave the blade flat on the stone. This makes sharpening super easy (the angle is automatically the same every stroke) and the blade extra sharp. However, the steeper edge angle isn't as durable, so you have to sharpen more often if you cut things that are likely to chip a super thin edge. For cutting open food packaging, and trimming blister skin, etc the "sharpen with the blade flat method" is fine.
Sharpen the scissors the same as the knife, just raise the back edge twice as high, and only sharpen the outside face. Use 2-3 strokes to wipe off the burr, keeping the inside edge FLAT on the stone. I sharpen my Vic classic & hiker scissors all the time with the 1x3" stone. It's easy - and unlike the Gerber (& similar) systems, it gets right up to the edge. (The Spyderco also gets up to the edge. I have one, it's great, but not convenient for backpacking - or as easy for small knives (letting the tip of the blade slip off the Spyderco & similar rod systems while sharpening rounds the tip of the knife).
ps: A strop is a piece of leather that has some buffing compound on it. The back of a leather belt, or the back of a legal pad also work (just not as quickly).