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An inverted canister stand for a MSR Windpro
One of my requirements for a winter stove is that it has to as easy as possible to set up. Wanting to use an inverted remote canister setup, I wanted something easy to set up.I tried some of the suggestions posted on BackpackingLight (e.g. stakes or wooden legs w/ a rubber band around the canister and some others) but they were never really stable. I decided to try a more permanent solution. I took a canister stand made by Primus and glued it to the top of head where the valve is. This worked for a little while but then the epoxy broke because it didn't bond well to the aluminum. I then took a bit more drastic measures.The wooden block was used to provide a stable platform for the valve head while using a drill press. The 5/8” Forstner bit was used to drill the hole in the wooden block. It was perfect size for the bottom of the valve head to fit in. I then separated the canister legs. Using some double-sided sticky tape I positioned the top canister leg onto the top of the valve head. I then drilled two 3/32” holes through the top of the leg and into the top of the valve head. I then separated the 2 pieces and I enlarged the holes in the canister leg with a 1/8” drill bit so the screws would fit through. I then used the 7/32” drill bit to countersink the holes so the screw heads would be flush. I then used the 3/32” drill bit to carefully extend the holes in the valve head. Once that was done I had to do quite a bit of work with a metal grinder to get the screw heads small enough to fit and the length correct. After test fitting and a bit of fiddling, I mixed up some JB weld and screwed and glued it all together. The last step was to shim the fuel line connection so that it would tighten up ½ turn earlier. This would place the valve head upside down. I used a brass washer and filed it down to an appropriate size. Total weight is 7.6 oz. Here are some more pictures.
Edited by mnferwerda on 11/18/2009 19:56:45 MST.
What is the advantage of the inverted canister? My guess would be since the gas sinks to the bottom as it is burned out of the top, more pressure stays on the outlet if the outlet is on the bottom, right? This would especially help maintain pressure in cold weather?
Impressive.Even more impressive is that the holes missed the internal gas channels! That took some care.Cheers
Hi FrankRead our articles on Winter Gas Stoves!!!!!Selecting a Canister Stove for Cold Weather BackpackingPart I: Stove and Fuel Fundamentalshttp://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/selecting_stoves_for_cold_weather_part_1.htmlSelecting a Canister Stove for Cold Weather BackpackingPart II: Commercially Available Canister Stove Systemshttp://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/selecting_stoves_for_cold_weather_part_2.htmlCheers
Roger,Yes, I was very careful how far I drilled down. It is also why I attached the leg toward the fuel connection side because I had more room to work there. In the middle or by the valve adjustment side, the internal chamber was much bigger.Mark
Hi MarkYes, I could see the offset. :-)My comment was for others who might want to copy.A neat job. Welcome to the stove hackers club.Cheers
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