I'm looking for a mechanical stretch fabric for use in a Paramo-type jacket and pant. I'll use Paramo's pump liner paired with the mechanical stretch face fabric. I'm hoping to get total softshell performance (wind resistance, breathability, comfort & stretch, and water-proofness) out of this combination.
Mechanical stretch fabrics are the only solution as spandex/elastane used in stretch-wovens absorbs too much water.
Fabric I'm looking for needs:
1. Mechanical stretch. I'm aware of two categories here: crimped yarns (Primeflex/3GT/Inertia) & bias-cut fabrics. I understand that Pertex Equilibrium has some mechnical stretch but am not sure how. The more stretch the better.
2. Air permeability between 3 and 6 CFM.
3. Durability must be good enough for pants traveling through temperate and boreal N. American brush without undue care.
4. Must be ok with being washed in Nikwax. (I've heard Pertex Equilibrium does funny things if DWR gets on its inner surface - anyone know if that's true?)
5. Quiet and soft
6. Light weight, of course. Between 1.5 and 3.5 oz./yard
I'm OK with canabilizing garments if necessary. I've thought of several fabrics used in existing products, but each seems to have something lacking:
Patagonia Ready Mix mechanical stretch (2-way) polyester. Only minimal stretch and relatively poor durability.
Arcteryx Squamish mini-ripstop mechanical stretch (crimped yarns) 1.5 oz. nylon w/ air permeable PU coating on inner face. May not be durable enough at this weight; PU coating may absorb water in same way as spandex would.
Montbell Stretch Ballistic Nylon used in their Stretch Light series has 2-way mechanical stretch (cut on bias, characteristic of the weave). May be too light for durability; may be snag-prone.
Inertia fabrics from Cloudveil are made of 3GT/Primeflex, a form of crimped polyester yarns conferring mechnical stretch. Being polyester may not be durable enough; may not be woven tightly enough/too permeable; may be too heavy.
BPL's SUL form of Pertex Equilibrium used in Thorofare line. Maybe too lightweight/not durable enough; maybe not enough stretch; possible problem with DWR on inner face.
Basically I'm trying to build a waterproof version of a Polartec Powershield jacket or similar. Close-fit, durable, good feel, wind resistant, breathable, but Waterproof to boot.
Anyone who's suffered through reading this long post happen to have a suggestion for a suitable fabric come to mind??