I believe you're right, I'm new to how alcohol and water relates to how it burns in an alc stove but I'm happy that with your's and other guy's suggestions, you guys steered me into the direction to try it out.
Test #1: 20ml Green DA to 1ml of distilled water (5% water mix)
Test Method: Measured 20 ml of fuel in a Pyrex graduated cylinder and used a medicine dropper with 1ml increments to measure out the water. Water was added into the graduated cylinder and swished around to ensure it mixed. The new fuel mixture was poured into the Evernew Ti Stove and lit. An Evernew 600ml Ti pot was placed on top (not to measure boiling times) but rather to check on soot deposits left behind.
- not much different from using pure Green DA
- yellow/orange flames present during full bloom riding up the sides of the pot
- left behind light sooty deposits on the stove's upper piece but heavier on the underside of the pot
- the deposits would not easily wipe off and needed to be scrubbed off with a "green" pad and detergent
Test #2: 20ml Green DA to 5ml of distilled water (25% water mix)
Test Method: Same as above except with 5ml of distilled water added to the mix.
- significantly different
- yellow/orange flames significantly reduced, none riding up on the sides of the pot
- purple color flames more abundant where it used to be yellow/orange
- no visible sooty deposits left on the top of the stove stand
- underside of pot had a "rainbow patterned" discoloration and had a definite coating of "something" however it wasn't black sooty carbon. It's like the underside area got darker and it too also had to be lightly scrubbed in order to remove it.
- there were a couple of drops of fuel (or water) left in the stove after flame was out, however this quickly evaporated due to residual heat
*NOTE: When using HEET (yellow) or SLX, the underside of my pot may show very slight "splashes" of discoloration, kind of like water spotting patterned but nothing major.
Test #3: 20ml Green DA to 6.5ml + 1 drop of distilled water to approximate 6.66ml of water (~33% water mix)
Test Method: Same as above except with 6.5ml + 1 drop of distilled water added to the mix.
- similar to the above but with perhaps 4-5 drops more of leftover unburned "something" (probably water) which also quickly evaporated after flame was out.
- no sooty deposits on the upper stove stand, no visible discoloration
- underside of pot was darkened and slightly discolored with a rainbow-hue with what appears to be 2 hot spots, however with less of a coating than what was present after Test #2. No sooty deposits however.
**NOTE: Most of the dark area under the pot was easily wiped off with just a drop of alcohol and a paper towel. The blue hue remains as I believe that's the titanium changing color from the heat.
I'm not concluding anything as I don't believe in conjecture but I have some better ideas now that I might want to follow up on later (like using non-titanium pots) and ty it again using a stainless kettle and see how it might change the results.
Theory #1: Titanium has a tendency to discolor with a blue color once it reaches a certain temperature, and I believe the blue discoloration is a sign that the Green DA is indeed burning hotter. When I used only HEET (yellow), the bottom of my pan would not turn blue anywhere. Using SLX has a tendency to create small spotting of blue in random areas on my pot but leaves no coating and as such I believe it's cleaner for this specific application as it leaves less of a mess to clean up.
Theory #2: Water seems to be an excellent additive to control how Green DA burns, at 5% water mix it doesn't do much however at 25% mix the carbon sooting is eliminated. Whatever post combustion deposits left behind might vary based on the type of stove used and the material of the pot used.
Theory #3: Using Green DA to its full potential to boil water may lie more on the material and design of the pot being heated. For example I used a Japanese kettle to conduct my HEET vs SLX vs Green DA test, however the bottom has a very thick copper plate. From my understanding between copper vs aluminum, copper is a better heat conductor which I've seen in the past (used as a heatsink) where it seems to absorb heat faster than aluminum, however copper appears to want to retain the heat rather than give it away, whereas aluminum appeared to be more resistant at absorbing heat however it was much faster at getting rid of it.
If I used a typical "camp pot" or a pot of simpler design where the bottom was much thinner, I think I would've seen more significant results. Again I'd have to redo these tests and challenge my theories.