Hey,

I was looking for some advice regarding a down parka for Denali in May. I'm looking for a good quality jacket which isn't too heavy. Currently I'm considering the following garments:

1) North Face Himalayan Parka
2) Patagonia Down Parka
3) Rab Summit Batura Jacket

I was wondering whether anyone has had experience with these jackets whilst mountaineering? Currently I'm leading towards the North Face Jacket, however the waterproof zip design seems somewhat problematic.

I'm also taking the Arc'teryx Fission SL jacket as a light weight synthetic insulation layer, so I could definitely layer this with a down jacket higher on the mountain.

Are there any other brands I should be considering? Feathered Friends, Mountain Hardware?

Thanks
-John

Nunatak also makes some excellent down parkas.

Other good brands are Montbell, PHD Mountain Software (UK), and Nunatak Gear (made to order).

John-
Feathered Friends.
Fully baffled, lots of down, eVent shells.
Awesome.
Check out the Icefall in particular.
Their sizing runs about a size small for me.
Cheers!

Feathered Friends.

Taiga - Mont Blanc Extreme 700

https://www.taigaworks.ca/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=315

My small weighed in at 670g.

At $200 Cdn, its a steal. I'd buy another one if I didn't already have 3 down parkas (and 3 synthetics), one of which is an older version of the Taiga that just fits me perfectly.

John: What locals do in the Canadian sub-arctic is buy two down jackets with offset seams that fit inside each other. You wear both together for -40C to -60C (depending on your metabolism!), or wearing the 'inner' on its own down to -15C or so, the 'outer' on its own for -15C to -30C...

Kluane Mountaineering in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada came up with the inner + outer system.

As well, MEC.ca has very good dual-layer down high loft belay parkas. They also have an excellent Gear Swap site where mountaineering down parkas appear regularly as alpinists have children and retire to the warm rain of Vancouver!

Watch out for down jackets using metal snaps or 'press studs' as these don't work below -20C; also they tend to leave a metal rivet next to the chin or neck---beware, that will lead to contact frostbite!

Stay warm!

another vote for feathered friends. very lofty.

Hey,

Thanks for all your responses. I'm probably going to go with either the Patagonia Down Park or the Feathered Friends Frontpoint jacket, as they are both relatively lightweight and well recommended.

The North Face Himalayan and the Marmot and Mountain Hardware equivalent parkas are too heavy and seem like overkill for Denali, especially if I'm also taking a synthetic insulator as well, which I can layer under the down jacket if it gets really cold.

-John