I'm new to BAckPackingLight.... I'm trying to find a thread on how to modify my JetBoil to a remote canister stove. Any suggestions as to where I might find the correct forum and thread would be of great help! Thank you!

If you want it upright then the "Brunton Canister Stove Stand" is available from Amazon for $14. If you want to use it inverted then read the article by Roger Caffin here on BPL:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/myog_winter_stove_summer_upright_stove_brunton_stnd.html

Sorry, I just realized the prior message was in the test forum- If you really want responses it should be under the appropriate category such as Gear or Make Your Own Gear.

Here's my test- making a link work:
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/myog_winter_stove_summer_upright_stove_brunton_stnd.html

Thank you for your response.... I'll move over and ask the same in the Forum area you suggested. Thanks! (I'll also copy/paste your link so that I can use it!) Pat

Edited by Walldiver7 on 01/24/2009 13:40:16 MST.

> modify my JetBoil to a remote canister stove.
Unwise. This stove has no preheat tube. If the canister fell over you would have a fireball.

The Jetboil is very efficient, but rather slow. It is not a stove of choice of UL walkers.

Cheers

I think you might be looking for this thread, any questeions PM me.

Tony


http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=7265&skip_to_post=85972#85972

Edited by tbeasley on 01/26/2009 02:03:01 MST.

Roger said:"The Jetboil is very efficient, but rather slow."

From my experience last summer I disagree with the "rather slow" comment. On my trip I typically didn't cook in camp, instead stopping three times most days for hot food or drinks. From the time I set my pack down to having 1/2 pint of boiling water was barely over 3 minutes. Not only is the stove efficient with fuel, it's efficient with movement.

"It is not a stove of choice of UL walkers."
Clearly true. Last summer I halved my old 30+ pound baseweight.

Hey Roger, Tony, and others:

Roger.... Yes, I knew it needed a preheat tube.
Tony: That link you sent me is exactly what I had in mind! My prototype turned out to be a little awkward, but it performed very well.
If I knew how to attach a picture I'd show you my preheat tube for my JetBoil.... but I don't! It worked like a champ! So if someone will be so kind as to tell me how to attach a pic, I'll post it.

Pat

I completed my mod on my Jetboil not 2 weeks ago. First I listed it for sale. Then I accepted the paypal payment. Placed it in a box and mailed it away. It has never served me better...

When you reply to my snide little post you will note in the upper right hand portion of your screen a button labeled "insert image at cursor" . This will allow you to do exactly that - insert an image at the cursor :)

Hi Pat,

Great stuff, I look forward to seeing you pics.

Tony

Why the long stilts? Were you not able to bend the fuel tube so that you could lower the thing down?

what are the exact modifications you did to the bruner head ?
Getting a pre-heating tube in ??

Hi Pat,

Nice work, I like your stove legs, much nicer than mine.

thanks for post your pics.

Tony

The "Not so Exact" modifications:

1. Remove valve from burner head
2. find an appropriate length of aluminum tubing to run up through the reflector plate, around the burner, and back down to the burner. (from the picture, you can't tell, but my tubing was a little short)
My Al tubing and fitting came from an old gas water heater control that I threw in my junk box. It had a fitting that was too small to thread up into the burner, but temporarily, I was able to make it work by wrapping it with steel wool and screwing it up into the burner.
3. I did have to very slightly enlarge the vent slots in the reflector plate to accomodate my tubing.
4. Cross you fingers, pray to God, and try not to use the F word too many times when you start the shaping/bending of the tubing up through the reflector plate, around the burner, back down through the reflector, and then.... a 90 deg. bend up into the burner!!!!!!! Geeze OH Pete this took some time and patience (and 4 beers)!
5. I had a braided hose and remote valve that I borrowed from my Primus EtaPower stove and made a connection with that to my tubing with a short piece of automotive fuel line.

Now...... remember, (before anyone starts yelling about the rubber fuel line) this was only for testing purposes on my prototype. I wouldn't want to leave it like this, mainly because that fuel line is heavy, not because it's unsafe.

ABout the brass tubing legs: Yes, they suck! They're light, but they're not something I'm real happy with. My tube bending skills aren't the best (on the preheat tube) and I was just tired of fooling with it at this point, So I raised it up to accommodate the large bend I had to make up into the burner.

Did this cover it?

Edited by Walldiver7 on 03/11/2009 20:16:29 MDT.

Hi

Aluminium tubing for preheat ... um, dicey imho. good experiment though.

You can find small bore SS tubing which is excellent, and you can also find copper refrigeration tubing which may or may not survive very long. Scaling is a problem with the copper in the presence of oxygen.

Both SS and Cu bend very nicely in comparison. Both can be brazed.

Cheers

...but i'm quite curious as to why you would do this. does it save weight or something over the standard setup? i love gear mods so think it's awesome this can be done... just not sure the reasoning why.

Hi Nick,
the jetboil is an efficient summer stove. In the winter, like all upright canister stoves it only works if you keep the canister warm. The solution is to invert the canister and send liquid gas to the burner. This is only safe if you have a preheat tube in the flame to vapourize the liquid before it burns.
There are easier stoves to use in Winter so maybe that does not answer your question.

thanks. that answers the question.