Out of curiosity has anyone tried to make a remote canister stove using a caldera cone type pot support? It seems to me that a remote canister stove using the burner of something like an MSR wind pro with wire supports for just the burner and a caldera cone supporting the pot would make a really lite stove that has the power to melt a lot of snow. Thoughts?

It stands to reason that this would work very, very well assuming you had the right air / fuel mix going on. All you'd need to do is notch the cone to accomodate the remote fuel line coming in and it should work. You'd need to ensure that you maintained the ideal distance between the pot and burner, which may be different with different types of burners.

Hi Cameron,

>Out of curiosity has anyone tried to make a remote canister stove using a caldera cone type pot support? It seems to me that a remote canister stove using the burner of something like an MSR wind pro with wire supports for just the burner and a caldera cone supporting the pot would make a really lite stove that has the power to melt a lot of snow. Thoughts?

I have been thinking about doing what you have mentioned above for quite a while now, I have just received a cone for my BPL 550 pot and plan to modify one of my ultra light remote canister stoves to fit into it.

But I will have to modify the cone to suit the canister stove system and first and I am running some efficiency tests on the CC system with alcohol stoves to see if they are really as good as they are claimed to be.

Tony

Cameron,

I remember reading a post from AGG stating that the material used to make the Caldera Cones will not stand up to the heat from a canister stove. Alcohol puts out a lot less Btu's than the canister fuel.

A Ti Cone would be fine, but not the Al Cones.
The ventilation at the top would probably need to be *much* greater.
The ventilation at the bottom - ah well, not so bad.

Cheers

That is a good point about the Ti vs Al and the ventilation needing modification. Has any one actually tried this or is it just in the conceptual stage?

I made such a stove some time ago. Here is the link to the original post . It worked when I tested at home, but I haven't tested it outdoors or for longer period yet.

I think that the aluminium should be OK for normal use provided the ventilation holes are large enough (and they should be to avoid CO production) and pot large enough. I'm sure that holes I used provide more ventilation that original windscreen of the stove. The plywood base could be protected by adding an aluminium sheet above it (with some spacers in between), but even this is not necessary IMO - you can run a white gas stove with a windscreen on wooden platform without burning it. I am a bit more concerned about the fuel line inside the cone, I measured the temperature close to it but I don't know what the fuel line can tolerate. On the other hand, when it can be used with powerful white gas stove and windscreen, it should survive something. But this is the place I would like to add some more protection.

The rationale behind the design is not to protect the stove in wind or improve efficiency, but to provide stable cooking setup for use in tent in winter. The cone is connected to the base when it is set up, so the whole system is stable, yet you can lift the pot easily.

Edited by zkoumal on 10/19/2008 22:06:26 MDT.

I have one more idea going in this direction. The Omnifuel burner is heavy, noisy and a bit hard to ignite in this setup. Now I'm thinking about using modified Brunton pot stand (described some time ago here in Roger Caffin's MYOG article)for the fuel line and a valve, removing the legs, and a burner from some smaller stove. I have a small stove that has the jet in a burner that can be separated from the body with a valve, so with a converter with proper threads, I would be able use only the burner and use only the valve at the canister end.

Hi Jan

> I haven't tested it outdoors or for longer period yet.
Yeah, I still have a copy of your photo on file! I liked the idea.

I would be a little concerned about how hot the plywood might get inside a cone. Things do get awful hot around those vortex stoves at times...

What might be elegant instead of ply would be a 0.5 mm thick Ti base - round disk with a curled edge.

I would NOT put the flexible fuel line inside the cone and I would try to ensure that the place where the valve comes out of the rigid tube does not get too hot. There is a critical O-ring there. They have put that junction a long way from the burner for a very good reason ...

Cheers

Hi Jan,

Very nice design and work on you winter stove.

What type of aluminum did you use for the pot stand/windshield and where did you get it from.

Thanks

Tony

You're right about protecting the base and tube, it is an issue I intended to work on. However, I measured the temperature inside next to the tube and it didn't reached dangerous level (can't remember the number). I'm now far from my home (what means workshop too) for a year, so don't expect any update soon (I have to find some dyi project not requiring many tools...).

My source of aluminium sheet is quite strange: It is a sheet that was used for some kind of printing - it has various text and graphics on one side (requires some effort to get it off). My father got it somewhere long time ago. It is about the right thickness for this use, maybe a a bit on the heavy duty side.

Short run litho plate?

Cheers