great trip diary. i did that trip north to south. september 1995. there was tons of 1-2 foot deep, very mischievious patches of QUICKSAND. you didn't mention that. has it disappeared?
when i went the weather was perfect. we walked in that chocolatey water for 4 days. 6 inches deep to 5 feet deep. sometimes with quicksand under. we had to be ready to throw our packs off at a moments notice when the bottom of the river just pretty much disappeared.
it was an incredible trip though. well worth it. nice pics, thanks for the memories.